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Toronto
Life (monthly
lifestyle and fashion magazine)
Featured and recommended in “Toronto Life Annual
Eating & Dining Guide” every year since 2000
Mezzeta
(October, 2002)
While the tapas craze has yet to gain a solid foothold
here, the Middle Eastern tradition of mezes—small
shared dishes—finds expression across the GTA.
This St. Clair West hot spot features eclectic décor
that ranges from framed portraits of jazz greats and
vintage Hollywood stars to maps of the Mediterranean,
wall-mounted pistols and ornate scabbards.
Weapons notwithstanding, the effect is a welcoming and
the friendly, efficient service adds to the pleasant
ambience. Pricing is based on the number of guests,
with five selections suggested for each (two get 10
selections for $28). More than 40 mezes—salads,
dips, veg, meat and fish—are available, and the
restaurant helpfully provides pencil and paper so diners
can jot down their choices, or once can simple leave
it up to the chef. Highlights include a fresh, flavourful
tabbouleh, smokey baba ghanouj, Morrocan carrots with
chickpeas in a piquant mint sauce and a simple dish
of sautéed button mushrooms in a garlic vinaigrette.
Special mention goes to Sultan’s Stew—formerly
known as Egyptian Mush—a
deeply savoury blend of sautéed eggplant, zucchini,
tomatoes, green peppers and onion. Indeed, the vegetarian
dishes provide some of the most exciting offerings,
but beef sambusak impresses with tender, crisp puff
pastry that houses moist ground meat. Homemade vine
leaves with minced beef and basmati rice are also excellent.
Three desserts ($4.25), each with its own appeal. Reconstituted
Turkish apricots bathe in orange blossom water, gilded
with fresh whipped cream and whole roasted almonds.
Beirut Baklava boasts a heady cardamom flavour, while
crème Bavarian gets a splash of Triple Sec and
drizzle of choc syrup. Affordable wine and beer. Wednesday
nights feature some serious jazz with well-known local
players. $75
681 St. Clair Ave. W. October,
2002 Toronto Life
NOW
Magazine
Runner-up for Toronto’s best Middle Eastern restaurant
(Oct. 2002).
Recommended and selected among the best restaurants
in Toronto (Jan. 2006).
Toronto’s Top 25 cheap restaurants (Apr. 2005).
Review to follow:
Mezzeta
(April 2005)
681 St. Clair West, at Christie.
Specializing in the Middle Eastern tapas known as mezzes,
this one low-key take-away has evolved since it opened
in the early 90s into a casual hacienda decked out with
showbiz memorabilia. Bonus: live jazz Wednesdays from
9 pm. Double Bonus: Monday dinner, every second dish
is a buck (with a limit of 15), and Tuesday dinner they’re
a toonie; weekdays at lunchtime all vegetarian items
are $2. Warning: as the sign on the wall map of the
Mediterranean Sea advises, “Refrain from touching
the map!” Best: from the card of more than 40
mezzes, the house Evergreen Salad of romaine, spinach,
coriander, parsley and walnuts in light vinegary vinaigrette;
somewhat
sour Mezziki—cubed cuke in yogurt, recalling Greek
tzatziki and India raita; garlicky Egyptian mush, and
olive-oily purée of garlicky tomato, eggplant
and green pepper suggesting Italy and Thailand; menu-described
“exotic green beans” turn out to be crinkley
Chinese long beans dusted with dill in lemon dressing;
to finish, Crème Bavaria, vanilla custard laced
Triple Sec, topped with toasted almonds and chocolate
syrup. Complete meals for $25 per person (lunch $12),
including all taxes, tip and a domestic lager.
Average main $4/$3. Open for lunch Monday to Friday
noon to 2:30 pm, for dinner Monday to Thursday 5 to
10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to
10 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms
in basement. Rating: NNNN
POST
Magazine
Selected as “Best in the Village”
(Forest Hill) for 8 years in a row.
“Best place to take a dip for the past
7 years” (Sep. 2004)
“Best in small doses for 8 years” (Oct.
2005)
Reviewed and selected among the top ten budget-priced
restaurants in Toronto. (Jan. 2003)
“A funky little boite with Middle Eastern tchotchkes,
wood beams and warmth to spare. Mezzetta serves Middle
Eastern appetizers. My top ten are: Red Goat, exotic
green beans (crisp fried but mysteriously ungreasy green
beans generously flavoured with onion garlic, and dill),
Eggplant garlic (eggplant pureed with enough garlic
and vinegar to replace sex’n’love), Lamb
Shish (succulent skewered little lamb morsels, perfectly
cooked), ditto chicken and swordfish skewers. Beef Sambousak
(delicately spiced, minced beef wrapped in feathery
ungreasy puffy pastry), Falafel (the usual deep-fried,
ground chickpeas but less greasy than usual). Fried
eggplant (for grease lovers only—thin slices of
crunchy deep-fried eggplant), herbed eggplant (piquant
eggplant vinaigrette)”
by Joanne Kates.
(top food critic) Jan. 2003 Village Post Magazine

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